Lorraine Griffin looks at Dublin's best bistros...
A toast to the French!
(Date:16 June 2011)
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s a little about her experiences of delightful bistros around town (after all, Bastille Day is just a month away!), she was more than happy to share the knowledge!
Read on for a toast to the French!
We’ve come a long way from imagining a typical French eatery as something out of an episode of ‘Allo Allo’, all Breton stripes and swinging garlic bulbs (oooh-er). Nowadays, we’re accustomed to Bistro-style eating, with numerous places around the city serving dainty French-inspired meals at really affordable prices.
We can’t cover them all but here are a few of my lunchtime favourites…
Situated on Exchequer Street, this cute restaurant offers a Parisian experience without the oh-là-là pricetag! (See here for another review from the Stitch and Bear blog!)
If I was to tell you that mushrooms on toast was the way to go, I'm sure manys the foodie eyebrow would be raised in disbelief. But seriously, this combination delivers massively on taste. A delicate collection of wild mushrooms sautéed to perfection, nestled into savoury brioche toast and then lightly covered in a creamy sauce. And the pièce de résistance (am like totally fluent!), they serve it with a poached egg perched on top. Heaven, and for less than a tenner.
They’ve recently introduced a new Summer Brunch menu (www.thegreenhen.com/menu-brunch.htm) available from 12 on Saturdays and Sundays, which contains all the traditional brunch fare, like Eggs Benedict & Florentine as well as heartier luncheon grub like their Rib-Eye steak sandwichwith crispy shallots. Prices on this menu range from 8 to 13 Euro.
What’s even tastier is that all the seafood and meat is sourced from local Irish suppliers. (Not sure where their escargot come from but looking at the ones perched on my garden wall, am hoping they hail from out-of-town)
Open 7 days, this little gem is definitely worth a visit.
I love this place. Maybe it’s because I watched ‘The Restaurant’ and saw how the owners, Stephen and Nick, transformed the space from an empty shell into a cosy eatery. The stylish, blue-toned décor creates a chilled out yet chatty atmosphere.
They do a great 2-course special for just €20, (make it 3 courses for a fiver more). Would recommend the Butternut Squash Risotto followed by Roast Cod, Crab Mayonnaise, Chorizo with Mussel Fricassee. There’s a delicacy in how the chef uses herbs and ingredients. The risotto was intensely flavoured and enriched with bites of butternut squash. Cod and chorizo wouldn’t normally find themselves on the one plate but in this case, the piquancy of the chorizo marries well with the silken cod. A carefully considered balance of flavours.
While we were there, there was a ‘tap malfunction’ (nothing near as raunchy as Janet Jackson’s wardrobe malfunction but nonetheless a source of drama in a restaurant setting). Quickly, and without fuss the wait staff brought large jugs of hot water into the bathroom so us patrons could wash our hands. No fuss, problem solved, and very much in keeping with the ethos of the place. Efficient whilst making it seem effortless.
Go for their signature dish, namely the Crispy Hens Egg, Serrano Ham and Baby Leeks with a Caper Vinaigrette. At only €7, it’s irrésistible….(Told you, fluent)
Everything always sounds better in French. Isn’t it so much more melodic to ask for your dessert à la mode? And it’s infinitely more sophisticated to sup on a wee apéritif before dinner than to down a few bevies en route to the restaurant.
In the case of Chez Max, the French menu delivers more than just a linguistic treat. The taste and texture of their food, and the combinations available, live up to the poetry in their names.
When our office was located on Baggot St, Chez Max was a big favourite for lunchtime treats or celebrations. It offers an outside dining experience, complete with bijou bar surrounded by funky sofas and chairs. The ideal get-together al fresco spot as we head (cautiously) into Ireland’s supposed heatwave.
The original restaurant is on Palace Street just at the entrance to Dublin Castle. This one offers a more intimate experience, ideal for lazy Saturday lunching or some Liaison Dangereuses (am referring here of course to a play of that name at The Olympia across the road).
For an authentic French experience, go for the Soupe à l’Oignon–a beautifully flavoursome clear onion soup with moreish chunks of sourdough and melted gruyere. Follow this with their Boeuf Bourguignon. Starting life as a peasant stew, this classic beef dish has evolved into a royal symphony of rich gravy and tender succulent beef enhanced by pearl onions and notes of garlic. This duo comes to around €20. If you want to ‘let them eat cake’ (har har) then go for the Tarte aux Pommes (€5.50). Proper French apple tart, not a Mr Kipling in sight.
If it’s a smaller bite you’re after, you can’t beat their unctuous Croque Monsieur. For only €7.90 you’ll be presented with toasted slices of homemade bread ensconced in creamy Béchamel sauce served with a side salad.
The names alone will have you feeling like you’re a native. Throw in a crème de cassis, don a beret and you’ll be spouting Proust to your (bewildered) friends in no time.
So there you have it, a few of my French Fancies. As Gordon ‘Rambo’ Ramsey would say….Dublin Bistros……..Done!
Thanks Lorraine, we now know where to go once this mythical heatwave kicks in, to sample some European culture and watch the city go by, all the while practising our bad French accents!
Like this? Try these!
Be Our Guest Lorrain Griffin
Dublin Street Food Awards
Fridays at Fitzwilliam Square
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